Chapter One
The bridge in the town’s name was named for Queen Mayor, the wife of King Sancho III. It is a dazzling stone structure that spans the narrow Rio Arga. Dating back to the 11th century, its graceful Romanesque arches create a perfectly reflected circular symmetry in the water below. I stood admiring it for a few minutes, conversing with another pilgrim from Canada who was on his way to the nearby albergue. Later, I would have one of those "duh!" moments when I realized that I had not questioned the fact that I was starting my day's walk at a time when he was finishing his.