Chapter One

1947 Wall Mural Pamplona

Sculpture, Running of the Bulls Pamplona

Public Space Pamplona

Queen Mayor's bridge, Puente la Reina.

Climbing out of Puente la Reina

Sun lower in the sky, still climbing up from Puente la Reina

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The bridge in the town’s name was named for Queen Mayor, the wife of King Sancho III. It is a dazzling stone structure that spans the narrow Rio Arga. Dating back to the 11th century, its graceful Romanesque arches create a perfectly reflected circular symmetry in the water below. I stood admiring it for a few minutes, conversing with another pilgrim from Canada who was on his way to the nearby albergue. Later, I would have one of those "duh!" moments when I realized that I had not questioned the fact that I was starting my day's walk at a time when he was finishing his.