Chapter Three
...I wound my way up what are essentially connected concentric circles that lead to the village’s crown, the classic Romanesque church, San Román. I passed through a small square where some men were breaking down a stage from what appeared to have been a concert the night before. Displayed on a wall nearby was an old poster demanding amnesty for imprisoned ETA members, a reminder of the ongoing issues of Basque self-determination that, until fairly recently, had resulted in chronic sectarian violence in Spain.